Has anyone been to Istanbul? I am going in October and would like to experience it the "No Reservations" way. Can anyone recommend any really special restaurants that are an absolute must to dine at? I am interested in all kinds of suggestions...from a "special" place for a romantic dinner...to the little tiny place that all the locals eat at because they make "the best (insert specialty here)".

Also, does anyone know of any can't miss culinary experiences...fresh markets...spice bazaars (other than the main one)...out of the way (as in NOT touristy) places to experience real Turkish cuisine (and any cookware shops).

Thanks in advance for all your help.