There's a CIA-graduate chef toiling away at the Job Corps campus in Oneonta, NY, shepherding kids on the edge through the intricacies of arriving on time, staying to finish the work, and knife skills. His name is Eric Erway, but the kids just call him "Chef."

One of the most memorable meals I've ever had was in the little dining room buried behind the kitchen at that facility. A young woman was directing a kitchen chock full of teenagers who were learning to cook. It was her final exam. She and her fellow students put on a five-course meal that was tasty, even delicious. Parts were brilliant, parts were a bit off, but overall she did great. Many of the staff were there to enjoy it. But I think those at my table enjoyed it the most, for they were my Mom and my son, Scott.

Scott had arrived at that Job Corps about a year before, teetering on the edge of criminality but burning with a passion to cook, inspired in part by a reading of Kitchen Confidential. Chef became Scott's mentor and, with his demanding guidance, got Scott through that program and into the Culinary Institute of America.

Scott's now on externship at Terra Restaurant in the Napa Valley, working under Chef Hiro Sone and having the time of his life. So maybe Mr. Bourdain would enjoy a meal at Terra (some claim that on any given day it's better than The French Laundry!). But if he wants something truly memorable, I suggest he go to the Job Corp campus on a day when a student is doing his or her final exam. I hear tell there's another student there now who's burning with a passion for food and one goal in mind: the Culinary Institute of America.

Lonnie Chu
Syracuse, NY

Im from Oneonta,and job corps here could use some positive press.Every week(including last) it seems students are getting in trouble in and around town.